Ski Santa Fe has no base lodging, but even if it did, you’d want to be in Santa Fe for dining, shopping and the museums. More than 70 hotels, motels, inns, condominiums and B&Bs serve Santa Fe visitors. Winter is low season in this region, but the increase of visitors trying to take advantage of this have actually caused prices to rise from bargain to a moderate level during the past few years. Expect to pay about $75–$110 a day, per person, for a ski-stay package at one of the many hotels on Cerrillos Road; and 25 to 50 percent more downtown. Basically, the closer to the Plaza you are, the more you’ll shell out for lodging. Without a car, this is where you'll want to be, so it's a trade-off.

Lift-and-lodging packages are the best deal; call All Santa Fe Reservations (877-737-7366) or the Santa Fe Visitors Bureau, (800) 777-2489. Downtown is where the best restaurants, shopping and nightlife are concentrated, although we do recommend a few great dining options outside the Plaza area.

The Inn of The Five Graces (866-992-0957; 992-0957; $$$$, above and left) is one of America's most unusual and unique luxury hotels. It is a delightful and surprising compound of one- and two-story adobe and river-rock buildings, with 22 suites and tranquil garden courtyards. Room doors open to a warren of walkways and patios under the Santa Fe sky. Every corner of the property is resplendent with surprises and inspired touches. The exteriors are some of the oldest in Santa Fe and the interiors are lushly adorned with oriental rugs and tapestries, as well as woodcarvings from central Asia. Only steps from Santa Fe's major restaurants, sights and shopping, the atmosphere is magical and embraces each visitor with a unique subtle luxury that soothes all five senses. A walking tour of Santa Fe is given each afternoon at 4 p.m. and guests gather to enjoy wine and cheese and meet each other between 5:30 and 7 p.m. Depending on the other guests, the experience is different with every visit. Unlike most luxury establishments, there are no additional minibar fees; local calls, parking and breakfast are included and no tipping is allowed.

Inn of the Anasazi (800-688-8100; 988-3030; $$$–$$$$) across the Plaza from La Fonda is the politically correct place to stay. The hotel's restaurants use vegetables grown by local organic farmers. Leftovers are given to a homeless shelter and everything is recycled. The Southwestern decor and furnishings are immaculate. The dining room is very pleasant and the menu selections enjoyable; however, this is also a very expensive place to stay.

La Posada de Santa Fe Resort and Spa, A RockResort (866-331-ROCK; 986-0000; $$–$$$) oozes with history. The enchanting six-acre complex surrounds an elegant mansion built in 1882 on the fashionable Palace Avenue by Abraham Staab for his bride Julia, who occasionally makes ghostly appearances at the top of the grand staircase, according to legend. In the 30s and 40s, La Posada (it means "resting place") was popular with visiting artists and art students. Today the Pueblo Revival-style compound of individual casitas – many with Kiva fireplaces – and the original manor house behind private walls lives up to its name. A curving pool with Jacuzzi, the gourmet Fuego restaurant (see Dining), the "most romantic bar in Santa Fe" and the 4,500 square-foot RockResorts spa add exquisite opportunities to refresh body and soul. Afternoon cultural lectures, wine and cheese tastings and Native American flute concerts contribute to an experience that is so Santa Fe. Did we mention that it's a short walk to the Plaza?

La Fonda Hotel (800-523-5002; 982-5511; $$$–$$$$; left) is another historic place to stay. An inn of one sort or another has been on this site for 300 years (Billy the Kid worked in the kitchen here washing dishes). The current La Fonda incarnation was built in the 1920s. If you don't stay, at least stroll through and take a look—they don't make them like this anymore.

Inn and Spa at Loretto (800-727-5531; 988-5531; $$$; right) is Santa Fe's ultimate pueblo-style hotel. It was completely restored in 1998 and provides fabulous rooms only steps from the Plaza. Spacious rooms have traditional New Mexican decor with carved wood furnishings and authentic Native American art.

Eldorado (800-955-4455; 988-4455; $$–$$$$) is the city’s largest hotel with 219 rooms. It has just undergone an extensive renovation, has opened a new spa and rates right up there with best in town.

The Hotel Plaza Real (877-901-7666; 988-4900; $$$) is convenient and comfortable. Of the 56 hotel units, 44 are suites with fireplaces. An ample continental breakfast is included, and you can't beat its location in Old Santa Fe.

We also enjoyed the adobe Inn on the Alameda (888-984-2124; 984-2121; $$$), which is handy to Canyon Road and offers a continental breakfast. In a village of adobe cottages, most featuring their own Indian kiva fireplaces,

Excellent B&Bs are Adobe Abode (983-3133; $$$–$$$$), Alexander's Inn (888-321-5123; 986-1431; $$–$$$), the spacious Dancing Ground of the Sun (800-745-9910; 986-9797; $–$$$), the Grant Corner Inn (800-964-9003; 983-6678; $$) and the classy Water Street Inn (800-646-6752; 984-1193; $$–$$$). The B&B Association of New Mexico does not have a Web site, but they can be reached at 982-3332.

Other accommodations to consider are the historic Hotel St. Francis (800-529-5700; 983-5700; $$), the Hilton of Santa Fe (800-336-3676; 988-2811; $$$; right) and the Hotel Santa Fe (800-825-9876; 982-1200; $–$$$), partly owned by the Picuris Pueblo.

Families should try the El Rey Inn (800-521-1349; 982-1931; $$–$$$), Garrett’s Desert Inn (800-888-2145; 982-1851; $$), the Campanilla Compound condominiums (800-828-9700; 988-7585; $$$), and the Otra Vez condos (988-2244; $$–$$$).

The closest lodging to the ski area is Fort Marcy Hotel Suites (800-745-9910; $–$$), just off the ski area road. They have 80 condominiums from one to three rooms and are only four blocks from the Plaza.

Many of the chain hotels, such as Comfort Inn ($$), Days Inn ($), Holiday Inn ($$) and Hampton Inn ($), have adopted the local adobe architectural style and are a little less expensive. They are conveniently located on Cerrillos Road, which makes them handy for getting to the ski area, but out of walking range for downtown. Santa Fe Sage Inn (725 Cerrillos Road; 982-5952; $-$$), is a much improved but still affordable version of its former self, a Budget Inn.

Accommodations Legend: (double room) $$$$–$200+; $$$–$141–$200; $$–$81–$140; $–$80 and less