Red River, about an hour drive—37 miles—north of Taos, has no pretensions about Indians or the Spanish. This once was a down-and-dirty mining town with saloons and bordellos lining the streets. Today, Red River is one of the prettiest ski towns and most convenient to be found in the U.S. Two main lifts drop right into town and most hotels and condos are within walking distance of them. If you don't want to walk, take the town trolley that makes its rounds every 15 minutes.

This is a fun mountain, a lot of fun. Red Chair and Copper Chair reach the summit from different spots in town. This is not high-speed quad territory; all these lifts are fixed-grip. There's a terrain park for those who like tricks and air. From the highest point, Ski Tip, beginners can drop to the other side of the peak to test about a dozen easy runs served by a double chair. Beginners can also ski all the way back to the base area along Cowpoke Cruise, which meanders down the entire 1,600 feet of vertical. Intermediates have the entire skier's right of the mountain for fun and games. These trails are the definition of cruiser delights. Advanced and expert skiers can head to skier's left from Ski Tip. Here, those seeking challenge will find a mix of trees and black-diamond trails.

Here's a trail map.

Red River claims to be one of the great teaching mountains. It has an excellent ski school that focuses on beginner and intermediate skiers as well as children. Red River's Youth Center and Buckaroo Child Care is open from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Children from 6 months to 4 years are accepted for child care; $40 for half day, $55 for full day. Kids ages 4–10 have lessons and indoor activities, and are grouped in classes according to age and ability. Costs range from $40 to $94, depending on number of hours and whether lunch and rental equipment is included.

Lift tickets (2006/07 prices): Adult, $54; teen (13–19), $49; juniors (4–12) and seniors, $41. Multiday discounts kick in with three or more days.

Accommodations: Almost all hotels are relatively close to the lifts and the town. For lodging information, call (800) 331-7699 or 754-2366. Lifts West Condo/Hotel (800-221-1859; 754-2778; $–$$) has spacious rooms and a wild second-floor hot tub. For European charm, stay at the Alpine Lodge (800-252-2333; $$$) or Edelweiss (800-445-6077; $$–$$$) with its heated swimming pool. The Auslander Condominiums (800-753-2311; 754-2311; $$), Black Mountain Lodge (800-825-2469; 754-2469; $$), Copper King Lodge (800-727-6210; 754-6210; $–$$) and The Riverside (800-432-9999; 754-2252; $) are all almost ski-in/ski-out.

Groups and large families can find great deals on cabin and townhouse rentals through Red River Real Estate (800-453-3498; $$–$$$$) or Bandanna Red River Properties (800-521-4389; $$–$$$$).

Dining/apres-ski/nightlife: Don't come here looking for fancy gourmet fare. This town is focused on good down-home meals with quantity. That said, Brett's (654-6136; $$) has an elegant dining room and a menu where everything from seafood to lamb is spiced with gourmet phrases. Texas Reds Steakhouse and Saloon (754-2922; $$) is everything a cowboy steakhouse should be. From the newsprint menu to the charbroiled beef, this is a carnivore's paradise. The Lodge at Red River (754-6280; $$) has a good family restaurant with plenty of steaks, but you can find trout and shrimp as well. Timbers (754-3090; $$) is another western-style steakhouse. For Tex-Mex head to Sundance (754-6271; $) or to Angelina's (754-2211; $). The new Roberto's (754-6270) inside Lift's West specializes in highly recommendable Old Mexican food. For N.Y.-style pizza and other Italian meals try Pappa's (754-2951; $). For breakfast head to Mountain Village Diner, across from the Chamber of Commerce, for an all-you-can-eat feast, to the Alpine Lodge for their breakfast burritos, or to Shotgun Willie's for the "Mountain Man Breakfast."

Red River is the nightlife capital of the region. If you want a rocking time, this is the spot to come. The town is normally packed with a young college crowd that loves to dance and sing. Head to the Motherlode Saloon for a chance to two-step and hear great live music. The Mineshaft Theater has concerts. Texas Reds often has singers in the bar. And the Bull O'The Woods Saloon has cowboy karaoke. The Lonesome Pine Pub serves eight New Mexico microbrews on tap; check their hours before you head there. Chubbies Tavern rocks during apres-ski with the college crowd.

Residents of Red River have an excellent sense of humor—and mischief. In November it's BYOT (bring your own turkey) for the annual Turkey Toboggan, where competitors race down the slope seated on the frozen beasts. February brings fully costumed Mardi Gras celebrations with awards for best and most unique masks. St. Patrick's Day is celebrated with a big ol' party. From mid-March to the end of the season, spring break "Beach Days" is the biggest celebration of the year with beach music, hula hoop contests, the flashlight parade for kids 12 and younger, a sand volleyball court and events all up and down main street. This is a good party town.