Marble Mountain Resort, Steady Brook, NL
(888) 462-7253, (709) 637-7601
Internet: www.skimarble.com
4 lifts; 175 acres, 35 acres; 1,700 vertical feet; 1 terrain park;
summit elevation 1,791 feet; base elevation 33 feet
LIFT TICKETS | LODGING | DINING | OTHER ACTIVITIES | GETTING THERE

It is said that Newfoundlanders underpromise and over-deliver. Nowhere is that more apparent than at Marble Mountain Resort in the western mountains of this Maritime Atlantic island province.

Plunging down a steep escarpment along the Humber River, Marble boasts trails that are as steep as any you'll find in eastern North America. Or in the Rockies, for that matter. Boomerang and Autobahn drop almost vertically, with mammoth moguls, for much of the mountain's 1,700-foot vertical drop.

But that’s not to say that Marble is only for experts. Country Road is a l-o-n-g beginner run from the summit that kids will want to ski again and again. At the base is a platter lift that serves a wide but short beginner trail. The entire southern flank of Marble is dominated by well-groomed intermediate cruisers with views of the Humber River that make even locals pause. And the views from the summit to the rugged Blomidon Mountains and Gros Morne National Park might make you feel as if you're in the Rockies, not near sea level on the Atlantic coast.

Here's a trail map.

Besides the view, what sets Marble apart from its Eastern counterparts is its snow. More than 16 feet of powder pile up every winter, and without the winter rains that often plague New England resorts, Marble’s snow tends to stay soft, like Western snow. While most people might think of Newfoundland as one-degree warmer than the North Pole, the climate is fairly temperate. The continental air masses that swing over northern Quebec are tempered by the expansive water surrounding Newfoundland — from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the North Atlantic. The average temperature in winter is minus-5 degrees Celsius, or 23 degrees Fahrenheit. In fact, one of our contributors was colder in Vermont in March than in Newfoundland in mid-winter. The climate is also fairly steady, and without the vast temperature swings that define a New England winter — from the 50s in January to -20F in February — ice does not tend to harden the slopes.

Given its remote location — a 7-hour drive from St. John's and an airplane flight or ferry ride removed from the mainland — Marble sees little skier or snowboarder traffic. Lift lines are non-existent, and as you carve down the birch and spruce-lined trails, you feel like you own the place. The base lodge is a whooping 54,000 square-foot post-and-beam edifice that gives guests far more elbow room than they need. Spend a week here, and you might feel claustrophobic at more well-known resorts. Although the cafeteria food is not exactly noteworthy, except perhaps for the artery-clogging but delicious French-Canadian junk-food called poutine, it's cheap.

Perhaps because their island is so remote, Newfoundlanders are a welcoming, generous, understated people. Ask for directions, and they're likely to show you the way. Stranded for an extra night by a snowstorm? They'll probably invite you for dinner. Just be wary on the roads. Although they're apt to give you the right of way at a stop sign, they'll blow by you on the highway as if they're being chased.

Marble Kids' Camp, for ages 3 to 6 years old, includes babysitting, a one-hour lesson, playtime and lunch for $65 per day, 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Equipment rental is $11. Babysitting is available for $35 per day, Monday through Friday only.

Lift tickets (2006/07 prices): Adults, $45 (Fri.-Mon.), $40 (Tues.-Thurs.); children (5–12), $22 (Fri.-Mon.), $18 (Tues.-Thurs.); students (ages 13-18, plus college students with ID) and seniors, $33 (Fri.-Mon.), $28 (Tues.-Thurs.); ages 5 and younger ski free but must wear a lift ticket. Never-evers ski the platter lift for $10/day. Single chairlift rides cost $8.

Lodging information: Humber Valley Resort (866-686-8100, 709-686-8100; $$$$; above) rents luxury — truly luxury — multi-bedroom homes (called chalets) ranging from 4,000-square-feet to 8,000-square-feet. They feature gourmet kitchens, outdoor hot tubs, bathrooms for every bedroom, and free wireless Internet access. On property is a spa and just about every winter activity you can think of, from snowmobiling to helicopter snowshoeing (!). The resort is located about 10 minutes from Marble Mountain with shuttle service to the slopes.

Strawberry Hill Resort (877-434-0066 or 709-634-0066; $$-$$$$; left) was originally the country retreat of paper baron Sir Eric Bowater. Visiting dignitaries have included Prime Minister Trudeau and Her Majesty, the Queen of England. Today, guests may stay in the original manor or in one of eight luxury houses, also called chalets, and appointed in charming country décor. The dining room serves the finest cuisine in the region.

Across the road from Marble Mountain — and mind you, it’s the Trans Canada Highway, so it’s quite a wide road — is the Humber River Suites (877-497-5673 or 709-634-2237; $$$$), new and well-appointed two-bedroom condominiums overlooking the Humber River. The main building, where you check in, has an indoor salt-water swimming pool and hot tub, and the entire property has free wireless Internet access. The owner also runs Explore Newfoundland and can arrange adventurous cross-country ski and snowshoe trips into the land-locked fjords of stunning Gros Morne National Park.

At the base of Marble Mountain is Marble Villa (800-636-2725 or 709-637-7666; $$$-$$$$), ski-in/ski-out lodging with 29 studio, one-bedroom, and two-bedroom suites with kitchens.

Dining: Madison's at Marble Inn (634-2237; $$$) part of Humber Valley Suites, specializes in steaks and also serves traditional cod fish dishes. It’s also open for breakfast. Sorrento (639-3555; $$-$$$), in nearby Corner Brook, is run by a Bulgarian couple and is known for its homemade pasta and pizza. They also deliver; call 639-3466 for delivery orders. At Humber Valley Resort, try Sully's Pub (686-8100; $$-$$$) for beer and a burger, or breakfast. Beware: the place is loud, and on Thursday nights, prepare yourself for the Newfoundland tradition of the “Screech In,” where unsuspecting visitors are given a shot of rum (screech), then presented with a fish to kiss. On the lips. Between Marble Mountain and Humber Valley Resort, Strawberry Hill Resort (634-0066; $$$$) offers the region's most elegant dining in its manor house. And no fish to smooch.

Other activities: The Blow-Me-Down Cross-Country Trails, near Corner Brook, holds 40 kilometers of groomed trails, with 7km lighted for night skiing. Rentals and lessons are available. Call (709) 639-2754. Snowshoeing is also available here.

To explore expansive, scenic Gros Morne National Park by cross-country skis or snowshoes, contact Explore Newfoundland (877-497-5673 or 709-634-5225) for a guide. Although maps are available from the park, it is advised that newcomers hire a guide due to the remoteness of the area and lack of skier traffic. It is also best to bring your own equipment.

The East's only snowcat skiing operation is in the Blomidon Mountains west of Corner Brook. Blomidon Cat Skiing (709-783-2712) runs daily trips from mid-February through mid-April into stunning, rugged alpine terrain for $275/person, $245/person for groups of 8. A full day includes 10-12 runs, a guide, avalanche transceivers, and refreshments.

How to get there: Marble Mountain Resort is located 6 miles north of Corner Brook on Newfoundland's west coast. The resort is accessible by air via Deer Lake Airport, located 20 minutes north of the resort and served by several daily flights to/from Halifax and Montreal on Air Canada.

By car, Marble Mountain is immediately off the Trans Canada Highway. Take the 6-hour ferry from North Sydney, Nova Scotia, which docks at Port aux Basques in southwestern Newfoundland. Call 800-341-7981 for a schedule. For 2007, the ferry costs $76.50 for a car, plus $9 for a reclining seat on the ferry or $54 for a daytime berth, $99 for a nighttime berth (fits four people). From Port aux Basques, drive three hours north on the Trans Canada Highway to Corner Brook, then five more kilometers to Marble Mountain.