Isolated Kirkwood's self-contained village has plenty of off-slope options, including ice skating on the village rink, tubing, dogsledding, sleigh rides, snowmobiling, sauna, massage and rec center with indoor pool. Kids’ activities (including Kids’ Nights on Saturdays) are regularly scheduled; check the resort’s event calendar. Ice fishing is available on two nearby lakes; a hot springs is 45 minutes away.

Gaming isn't the only game in South Tahoe. Beyond betting the farm or catching a show, the options are plentiful. Here's a sampling, but ask at your hotel for other suggestions.

Heavenly's Adventure Peak Snow Park (775-586-7000), at the top of the 2.4-mile gondola, offers lift-accessed snow tubing, snow biking, sledding and snowshoeing. New this season is the 50-mph zipline ride from the top of the Tamarack Express lift to the top of the gondola, a vertical drop of 525 feet. At 3,100 feet in length, it will be the longest zip line in the lower 48 states. In the Heavenly Village at the base of the gondola (in the center of town), an open-air ice rink is open every day (530-543-1423). Or you can ice skate at the South Lake Tahoe Ice Arena (530-542-6262), open every afternoon from 1–5 p.m. and some evenings and mornings. Skates are available for rent.

Call Lake Tahoe Balloons (530-544-1221) for balloon rides and Lake Tahoe Adventures (530-577-2940) for snowmobiling. The Husky Express (775-782-3047) takes people in the Hope Valley. Camp Richardson (530-541-3113) has sleigh rides through meadows; reservations required.

For a romantic anniversary, a birthday or just a fun 40 minute tour of South Lake Tahoe, find Lake Tahoe Horse & Carriage (530-542-4200), outside Embassy suites on the corner of Transit Way and Hwy 50 - weather permitting. $20 for adults, $10 for kids 10 and under.

When you're shopping in Heavenly Village, check out Cowboys & Indians (530-542-1018) across the street from Rayle's grocery store. If everything weren't for sale, you might think this was a museum. The merchandise is exquisite - native American artifacts, jewelry, clothing, even gun replicas. The owner, Gary Wyles, aka "Hoss the Boss," and his ever-present canine boxer, Sugar Ray, are always on site. Note: If you're also looking for local information and dirt, this is the place. Stop in for the latest lore.

Local and imported wines for sale by the bottle and wine tasting by the glass can be found at Wines on the Lake (530-544-3839). They also sell beers, ales and wine-related gifts.

The South Lake Tahoe Ice Arena (530-542-6262) is a 37,000-square-foot, indoor, official NHL ice arena, with daily public sessions and skate rentals. It's adjacent to the Recreation Center & Swim Pool Complex (530-542-6056), with indoor pool, weight room and gym.

A few factory outlets—Bass, Geoffrey Beane, Van Heusen, Big Dog, Adidas/Salomon—have opened at "The Y" (the intersection of Hwys. 50 and 89 south of town). For a massage, make an appointment with the Bodymind Studio (530-541-5041) in the Timber Cove Lodge.

Weddings aren't your everyday optional ski activity, but if you're thinking of getting married with little fuss, this is one of the best spots to do it. More than 20 wedding chapels dot the area, but probably the nicest ones are in the big hotels. Most have wedding concierges to plan every detail. You also can be married outdoors, either by the lake or on the slopes. California marriage licenses cost about $50; Nevada licenses are a bit less, plus no blood test is required. For more information, contact the Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority at (800) AT-TAHOE (288-2463).