Evan's American Gourmet Cafe (542-1990; $$$) on Rte. 89 has become one of the best-liked restaurants on the South Shore. The chef prepares California Cuisine with an unusual flair. Expect to pay for his efforts, but they are well worth it.

For a superb meal, great wine list and attentive service—with a beautiful view—head to Friday's Station (775-588-6611; $$$; above) at the top of Harrah's casino-hotel.

Other recommendations are Fresh Ketch (541-5683; $$$) for fish; Dory's Oar (541-6603; $$$) for steaks and seafood; or ECHO Restaurant & Lounge (543-2140; $$–$$$) in the Embassy Suites hotel for its delicious American fusion cuisine.

Beacon (541-0630; $$–$$$) at Camp Richardson is known for its blackened prime rib. Nephele's (544-8130; $$) serves California cuisine in a cozy setting. Next door to Nephele's is an outstanding restaurant called Cafe Fiori (541-2908; $$). It doesn't seat many, so reservations are a must. The food and the wine list are superb.

Several new restaurants have opened in Heavenly Village. The energetic and fun FiRE + iCE (542-6650; $–$$) at Marriott's Timber Lodge next to the gondola is an improvisational grill where you choose the ingredients for the chef to grill.

In April 2004 Sammy Hagar opened his second Cabo Wabo Cantina (775-588-2411; $$) in Harveys Resort Casino. Open for lunch and dinner, it specializes in authentic but creative Mexican dishes such as ahi tuna tacos and frozen margarita cake. When the clock strikes 10 p.m., it turns into a hopping nightclub.

Good reasonable restaurants include The Cantina Bar and Grill (544-1233; $) for Mexican; Scusa (542-0100; $$) for Italian (a local favorite); Sato Japanese Restaurant (544-0774 or 775-588-1914; $–$$) in the Horizon Casino for surprisingly good sushi specials; Shoreline Cafe (541-7858; $$) for good pasta specials and an extensive kids' menu; or The Tudor Pub (541-6603; $–$$), upstairs from Dory's Oar, for fish & chips and European beers on tap. And Del Soul (775-588-3515; $$) is a casual Mexican Grill.

Sprouts (541-6969; $) is another local favorite. The extensive menu includes rice bowls, hummus melts and lasagna. Don't miss the smoothies, especially if you're ailing after a long night. A shot of wheatgrass might cure all. A small eclectic cafe with an island atmosphere (check out the salt and pepper shakers on each table), Freshies (542-3630; $) is another good bet for fresh, healthy food. In keeping with the name, the cafe offers half off soups on powder days.

For great breakfasts head to the Red Hut Waffle Shop (541-9024; $), where you can pack into a small room and listen to the talk of the town. Another branch is on Kingsbury Grade (775-588-7488; $), handy for skiers heading to the Nevada side of Heavenly. At Heidi's (544-8113; $), get anything from dozens of types of Belgian waffles to chocolate pancakes. The Horizon's Four Seasons serves a basic breakfast, and you can pick up a latte at Starbucks in the hotel lobby.

And just in case you crave a malt "so thick it holds the straw up," go to the Zephyr Cove Resort. Try the banana-chocolate shake. Alpen Sierra Coffee Roasting Company, at Hwy. 50 and Pioneer, is considered one of the area's best coffeehouses and serves locally roasted mountain coffee.

Also on Hwy. 50, just before the turnoff to Kirkwood, The Downtown Cafe, owned and run by hospitable southerners, is the only place in the Tahoe area you can get sweet tea and grits. Their $10 breakfast is the best.

Kirkwood and surrounding area:
If you're staying at Kirkwood, you'll probably discover the places to eat on your own—not a big selection, but all are pretty good. Off the Wall Bar & Grille ($$) in the Lodge at Kirkwood has California-style gourmet cuisine in a comfortable cozy atmosphere. Bub's Sports Bar & Grill ($–$$) across the street from the Cornice Express is where the locals eat, and you'll soon discover why. The burgers and sandwiches go a step beyond the usual bland slopeside cuisine. Also try Kirkwood Inn ($$), built in 1864 by Zachary Kirkwood and in operation ever since, featuring hearty meals such as steaks and seafood. Look for the bullet holes left in the walls from Prohibition days. A mile east of Kirkwood on Hwy. 88 is the Caples Lake Resort (209-258-8888; $$–$$$) for fine dining overlooking scenic Caples Lake. At the General Store ($) you can find inexpensive sandwiches and fresh cookies—great for a slopeside picnic.

Reno, Nevada, has an exceptional collection of restaurants for those staying in the Biggest Little City in the World.

Dining Legend: $$$$–Entrees $30+; $$$–$$20–$30; $$–$10–$20; $–less than $10