Jackson Hole has some of the most beautiful natural surroundings in North America. Nordic skiers can strike out for marked trails in Grand Teton or Yellowstone National Parks, or try one of the three touring centers in the Jackson valley.

The Saddlehorn Activities Center (800-443-6139; 739-2629), also called the Jackson Hole Nordic Center, has 17 km. of groomed track in Teton Village, next to the Snake River Lodge. The majority of trails are on the North Meadow, mostly flat with hills on the outer edge. The resort's bucking bronco logo is carved into the meadow and forms part of the trail system. It's a lot of fun—mostly for downhill skiers, who can see the logo from various places up on the mountain. Nordic skiers will have no idea what part of the logo they're on, because there are no "you are here" signs. The South Meadow has 7 km. of trails where dogs are permitted. Rentals and lessons are available, as are guided excursions into Grand Teton National Park. This center has incredible instructors with long pedigrees. Ask for Naheed Ahmed, especially if you're a beginner. You can exchange your Alpine lift ticket for a Nordic trail pass on the same day of purchase, so you can Alpine ski in the morning and cross-country or snowshoe in the afternoon. The center also offers telemark lessons, snowshoe rentals and dogsled rides.

Teton Pines Country Club (733-1005) has 14 km. of groomed skating and classic lanes on a gentle golf course with more ups and downs than you'd expect. The town of Jackson grooms about 30 km. each week in Game Creek Canyon, Cache Creek Canyon and the Snake River Dike. Call 739-6789 for the current grooming conditions. Also, Grand Teton National Park grooms a 32-km. trail between the Bradley-Taggart Lakes parking area and the Signal Mountain parking area once a week, usually on Thursdays. The Nordic Center at Spring Creek Ranch (733-8833) plans to open cross-country trails for the 2004/05 season.

The Hole Hiking Experience (690-4453) provides half-day and longer, naturalist- or wildlife-biologist-guided snowshoe tours in the Bridger-Teton National Forest or Grand Teton National Park. You'll be picked up at your lodging, and tours are planned based on your fitness level and desires. You might take a heart-pumping trek up a mountain or spend a leisurely few hours learning how to identify animal tracks and native flora and fauna. Full-moon and cross-country ski tours also are offered. You'll need to provide warm, waterproof boots and layered clothing.

The town of Jackson has a dedicated cross-country shop called Skinny Skis close to the Town Square. While you're there, pick up a copy of "Trailhead," a detailed guide to Nordic opportunities in Jackson Hole and the two national parks.