Getting there

By air: Most people fly into Calgary International Airport because it's served by most major airlines. It's about a three-hour drive to Fernie, though weather can affect travel time. Cranbrook Airport, served by Air BC, is an hour away. You also can fly into Glacier International Airport in Kalispell, Mont., which is about two hours away.

If you use the Rocky Mountain Sky Shuttle (888-762-8754 in U.S. and Canada, or 403-762-5200) from Calgary, make sure to ask your driver for local lore and wild tales of living in the rugged British Columbia wilderness. We found both our drivers to be Fernie locals who were very entertaining. Mountain Perks (423-4023) runs another Calgary-Fernie shuttle service.

By car: If you drive, be watchful for moose, deer, elk and bighorn sheep, which often wander into the road. From Calgary: South on Provincial Hwy. 2 to Crowsnest Hwy. 3, west on Hwy. 3 until you reach the town of Fernie. If the weather is nice, you can take a slightly shorter more scenic route: south on Hwy. 2 to Hwy. 7, west on Hwy. 7 to town of Black Diamond, south on Hwy. 22, west on Hwy. 3.

From Kalispell, go north on Hwy. 93 through the United States-Canada border. Continue on Hwy. 93 to its end, at the junction of Crowsnest Hwy. 3, then go east on Hwy. 3. After passing Morrissey, look for the turnoff to Fernie Alpine Resort on your left.

Getting around: Kootenay Taxi runs a ski shuttle between the mountain and town; a schedule is available from the resort Guest Services counter and local accommodations. A one-way trip costs C$3; four one-way rides, C$10; a Frequent Rider Card (10 rides), C$25. In the evening, a free shuttle runs between 6 p.m. and 12:42 a.m. We found the shuttle schedule to be somewhat inconvenient and ended up calling for a taxi (423-4408) to return to the mountain each time (about C$18 one way with tip). If you plan to do any kind of exploring, rent a car.