Burke Mountain Resort, East Burke, VT
(802) 626-7300
Internet: www.skiburke.com
4 lifts; 250 acres; 2,011 vertical feet; 3 terrain parks; summit elevation 3,267 feet; base elevation 1,256 feet

Burke Mountain has long been a secret in Vermont's remote Northeast Kingdom. Uncrowded and unhurried (perhaps because the summit chairlift is slow), it feels like a private club on many days.

Known as a difficult and cold mountain, Burke has largely been ignored by folks from "down country," except the ski racers who have attended Burke Mountain Academy, America's first ski-racing academy and the alma mater of more than 100 U.S. Ski Team athletes and 45 Olympians. But Burke's reputation has belied its gentler side. The whole lower part of the mountain is perfect beginner terrain and is largely ignored by the racers, and "racer chasers," who carve turns on the upper pitches. And from the summit, there is no better terrain for intermediates and experts than the wide-open rolls and twists of Upper Dipper and Big Dipper, or the backcountry feel of East Bowl. The grooming is also outstanding, and you'll often find fresh corduroy on some trails late in the day.

Off Powderhorn are some of the best glades in the east. Dixiland, Cave Man, and Throbulator offer acres of fall-line skiing with plenty of space between the beech and birch trees. To get a taste of the glades without a big commitment, start on Lew's Leap, more of an old-fashioned New England trail with natural snow, and yes, ice too.

Here's a trail map.

Purchased in 2005 by the Ginn Company, Burke is now being touched by modernity, namely a high-speed quad chairlift serving the lower mountain and a renovated base lodge. The Tamarack Grill (802-626-7390) in the base lodge now serves upscale cuisine, with menu items from a Tempura tuna roll to rack of lamb; open for dinner Wednesdays through Sundays and lunch on Saturdays and Sundays. Over the next few years, the company plans on investing more than $100 million into Burke and creating a four-season resort. This isn't as huge a transformation as it sounds, as the Village of East Burke is already a nationally renowned hub of mountain biking in the summer and fall. But Burke has been the focus of ambitious plans before, and very few have come to fruition. On-mountain lodging consists of townhomes. Some are rather dated, but most are slopeside and are convenient for families. Many people also opt to stay in one of the lovely country inns nearby. The area offers few other distractions, and for this reason, Burke mostly attracts those who love to ski and ride. Period.

Although Ginn has development plans for the area, the company has promised to leave the mountain experience the way it is. The Willoughby quad chairlift will still carry skiers and riders quietly through the snow-laden pines and ice-tinged birches to the summit, where the view is one of the best in Vermont. To the north, glacially carved Willoughby Gap frames the panorama, and beyond lies Canada. The the east, New Hampshire's White Mountains rise up from the northern forests. To the northeast, lies some of the most remote terrain in the lower 48.

Down in the Village of East Burke, don't miss Bailey's & Burke, a general store that caters to upscale appetites. The River Garden Cafe (802-626-3514) is highly recommended for dinner. East Burke Sports (802-626-3215) rents skis, cross-country skis and snowshoes.

The Burke Cross Country Center, about 2.5 miles from the Village and a mile or so from the ski area, has 80 kilometers of trails, 65 km groomed for classic and skate skiing and the remaining 15km for backcountry skiing. Rentals are available at the Center and lessons by appointment. Call (802) 535-5662.

The Cub Den Day Care, located in the Burke Base Lodge, takes kids ages 6 months to 12 years.

Lift tickets (2006/07 prices): Adults, $54 (non-holiday), $56 (holiday); children (6–12), $36 (non-holiday), $38 (holiday); teens (13–17) and seniors (65+), $40 (non-holiday), $42 (holiday); ages 5 and younger ski free. Never-evers ski just the J-bar for $9/day. Vermont residents ski every day for $39 (adults), $30 (youth/senior), and $27 child. Ski or ride on Sunday afternoons for only $15.

Distance from Boston: 190 miles north via I-93 to I-91. Exit 23, then Rte. 5 to Rte. 114.

Lodging information: (802) 626-7300 for a slopeside townhouse rental. Lodging in inns, hotels, and motels can be found in East Burke, Lyndonville (within 15 minutes), and St. Johnsbury (within 25 minutes). For accommodations in the Village of East Burke, try The Village Inn of East Burke (802-626-3161). West of the Village, on Darling Hill, are two charming inns: the Wildflower Inn (800-627-8310) is a great place for families, and Inn at Mountain View Farm (802-626-9924) is an elegant romantic country inn on hotel magnate Elmer Darling's former dairy farm. Both inns sit adjacent to a large network of cross-country ski trails and have spectacular views.